The Pender Cardigan

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At the end of September, the Pender Cardigan was released as part of Hinterland Straits 2017. The collection also includes the Haro shawl by Shannon Cook, Tribune Bay by Andrea Rangel, and Wya Point by Nat Raedwulf. 

Yarn

Hinterland Watershed is a chunky, softly spun yarn made from 50% alpaca, 50% rambouillet (also known as french merino) and if we've met before, I was probably wearing something knit from it. I have previously designed the Gambier Jacket using this same yarn, and I was interested to challenge myself with a textured project. Unlike some other chunky yarns, Watershed is very light which makes it great for avoiding stretching or lengthening in a larger project like a sweater (which can sometimes happen with alpaca fibre). I found that bulking up the fabric with texture makes it wear even more springy and light... bliss. 

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Fit

I aimed for a fairly conventional fit with this cardigan with about 6" of ease in the chest circumference, though I specifically wanted the cuffs to fit on the tighter side — I like my cozy clothing to be functional, and I hate when big chunky cuffs get in the way of doing important things with my hands (like knitting, obvs.)

Seamed vs. Seamless

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In comparison, the Gambier Jacket is seamless (except for the pockets). But because the textured fabric of the Pender would be so bulky, I knew that seams would create a structured fit that keeps its shape a bit better and "hugs" the body.

Because Watershed is a little bit soft for seaming, it works well to do short sections and / or add some extra twists to the yarn while working. It is also key to keep the tension not to loose / not too tight when seaming because of the thickness of the fabric. Goldilocks seaming, if you will.  

Another benefit of seaming such a bulky sweater is that the sleeves, fronts, and back are worked separately, so the project is easier to manage while in progress. 

 

Construction notes

Collar and button bands: Honestly, the button bands almost killed me (and probably my test knitters, but they were far too nice to say anything about it.) It took 3-4 times knitting and then several times rewriting the instructions before it all came together. Why make it so complicated? I really wanted the collar to stand up on its own. The construction starts with the back collar only, and then the sides of the collar are picked up at the edges of the short-row-shaped button and buttonhole band, which kind of tents the collar. This in combination with the twisted rib (which creates a more solid fabric) was successful in my plan for maximum neck warmth. 

Sleeves: the set in sleeves were slightly challenging to plan, but I was happy with the shaping I was able to achieve by putting the decreases a few stitches in from the edge (even the sharp decreases at the beginning of the cap). This gives the seams a softer look, and didn't seem to mess with the fit — I'm pretty happy with how the shoulders do not look overly big in this very bulky fabric.

Cuffs and bottom band: I think the first idea I had for this cardigan was to somehow have the cuffs and bottom band "sideways." At the same time I wanted to only have seaming where it was structurally necessary, so I figured out a plan to pick up stitches while working sideways. I'm sure it has been done before, but it was new to me. It was a fun discovery and I'll probably use this method again! 

FO

I am most happy with the collar of this sweater, which looks kind of like a bomber jacket and really does stand up on its own. The sample knit travelled to Knit City recently, and it was so fun to see so many knitters try it on and enjoy the coziness... though I'm happy to have it back and will probably keep it on for the majority of this Winter. 


Photos of cardigan: Kelly Brown
Photos of yarn: Hinterland 

Seeking Test Knitters for Women's Super Bulky Cardigan

***TEST FILLED, THANK YOU!***

General requirements:

◾️ Creation of a Ravelry project page when the pattern is published (on the day of, or as close to as humanly possible). The project must include photos of the finished garment on a model.
◾️ Participation in a discussion thread for testing, if there are any questions or comments you have while knitting
◾️ Completion of a short questionnaire upon completion of the knitted garment

Incentives:

◾️ A discount when ordering the suggested yarn from hinterlandfarm.ca
◾️ A digital copy of the completed pattern, as well as any other you choose from Standard Knits

Timeline for project:

◾️ Tech Edited Pattern available to testers: July 13, 2017
◾️ Feedback on FO due: August 27th, 2017
◾️ Ravelry project upload: Late September, TBA

Testers will obtain their own yarn and keep their completed sweaters. The suggested yarn for this pattern is Hinterland Watershed, but testers may use whichever similar yarn they choose as long as gauge is correct.

***TEST FILLED, THANK YOU!***
 

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Pattern Information:

Chest circumference (finished measurements):
38 (41, 44, 47) [50, 53, 56, 59]” / 96.5 (104, 112, 119.5) [127, 134.5, 142, 150] cm

Intended ease: approximately 6” / 15.25 cm positive ease in chest

Difficulty: 
Intermediate / experienced

Skills required:
Long tail cast on, increasing, decreasing, seaming, picking up stitches, short rows, buttonholes

Yarn:
Hinterland Watershed 50% Rambouillet, 50% Alpaca, 150 yards / 137 meters per 112g / 3.95oz skein
7 (8, 9, 9) [10, 11, 12, 12) skeins (shown in “Truffle”)

Or

Super bulky weight yarn
975 (1,115, 1,220, 1,320) [1,425, 1,530, 1,725, 1,775] yards / 890 (1,020, 1,115, 1,210) [1,305, 1,400, 1,575, 1,625] metres

Needles:
US 10.5 / 6.5mm 32” circular needle
US 10.5 / 6.5mm DPNs (for pocket linings)
Cable needle
Optional:  Straight needles of the same size may be used for fronts, back, cuffs, and bottom band if preferred
or size needed to obtain gauge

Gauge:
Using US 10.5 / 6.5mm needles, 14 stitches and 19 rows = 4” / 10 cm in stockinette stitch

 

Seeking Test Knitters for the Men's Gambier Sweater

***TESTS FILLED, THANK YOU!*** Seeking test knitters for the men’s Gambier, a squishy, cozy colorwork jacket knit in a super bulky yarn.

General requirements:

- Creation of a Ravelry project page when the pattern is published (on the day of, or as close to as humanly possible). The project must include photos of the finished garment on a model.
- Participation in a Ravelry thread for testing, if there are any questions or comments you have while knitting
- Completion of a short questionnaire upon completion of the knitted garment

Incentives:
- A discount when ordering the suggested yarn from Hinterland.ca
- A digital copy of the completed pattern, as well as any other you choose from Standard Knits

Deadline for project completion and feedback:
February 15, 2017

Deadline for Ravelry project with photos:
February 2017, TBA

Testers will obtain their own yarn and keep their completed sweaters. The suggested yarn for this pattern is Hinterland Watershed, but testers may use whichever similar yarn they choose as long as gauge is correct.

Overview of pattern

Difficulty: Intermediate
Skills required: colorwork, picking up stitches, short rows, working in the round

Yarn: 

Hinterland Watershed 50% Rambouillet, 50% Alpaca, 150 yards / 137 meters per 112g / 3.95oz skein

C1: 6 (7, 7) [8, 9, 10) skeins (shown in “Ash”)
C2: 2 (2, 3) [3, 3, 3] skeins (shown in “Snow”)
C3: 1 (1, 1) [1, 2, 2] skeins (shown in “Honey”)

Or

Super bulky weight yarn
C1: 800 (900, 1,000) [1,175, 1,275, 1,450] yards / 730 (825, 915) [1,075, 1,165, 1,325] metres
C2: 225 (255, 310) [330, 350, 385] yards / 205 (230, 285) [300, 320, 350] metres
C3: 95 (100, 110) [130, 155, 165] yards / 85 (90, 100) / [120, 140, 150] metres

Needles:
US 10 / 6mm 40” circular needle
US 11 / 8mm 40” circular needle
US 10 / 6mm double pointed needles
US 11 / 8mm double pointed needles
or sizes needed to obtain gauge

Gauge:
Using US 11 / 8mm needles, 11.5 stitches and 15 rows = 4” / 10 cm in colour chart 3

Size information:
Chest circumference (finished measurements): 41 (46, 52) [58, 63, 69]” / 105 (117, 132) [148, 160, 175] cm

Intended ease:  4 – 6” / 10 – 15.25 cm positive ease in chest

***TESTS FILLED, THANK YOU!*** If interested in being considered for this test knit, please send an email to standardknits@gmail.com and include:

- The size you would like to knit
-  Your Ravelry name
- Your Instagram name

Thank you!

Seeking test knitters for two sweaters

***TESTS FILLED, THANK YOU!*** Seeking test knitters for a squishy, cozy colorwork cardigan knit in a super bulky yarn, and for a boxy, cropped long-sleeve pullover knit in an aran yarn.

General requirements:

  • No revealing pictures on social media (though teaser pics are welcome!) Further social media info and support will be provided for confirmed test knitters.
  • Creation of a Ravelry project page including photos when the pattern is published (the day of, or as close to as humanly possible.)
  • Completion of a short questionnaire, general feedback on the pattern


Incentives:

  • A discount when ordering the suggested yarn
  • A digital copy of the completed pattern, as well as any other you choose from Standard Knits
  • Social media (and real!) love

Deadline for project completion and feedback: 
August 1, 2016

Deadline for Ravelry project with photos: 
Late September / early October

**TESTS FILLED, THANK YOU!***
 


Overview of cardigan

Difficulty: Intermediate

Skills required: colorwork, picking up stitches, short rows, working in the round

Yarn: Super bulky weight yarn, suggested: Hinterland Watershed  

C1: 850 (1,050, 1,300) [1,500, 1650, 1,800] / 780 (960, 1190) [1375, 1510, 1650] metres
C2: 200 (275, 360) [400, 490, 550] / 180 (250, 330) [365, 450, 500] metres
C3: 60 (85, 110) [125, 140, 150] / 55 (80, 100) / [115, 130, 140] metres

Needles: 
US 10 / 6mm 40” circular needle
US 11 / 8mm 40” circular needle
US 10 / 6mm double pointed needles
US 11 / 8mm double pointed needles
or sizes needed to obtain gauge

Gauge:
Using US 11 / 8mm needles, 13 stitches and 19 rows = 4” / 10 cm in colour chart

Size information:
Chest circumference (finished measurements): 37 (42, 47) [52, 57, 62]” / 94 (107, 119.5) [132, 145, 157.5] cm

Intended ease:  4 – 6” / 10 – 15.25 cm positive ease in chest

 


Overview for pullover

Difficulty: advanced beginner

Skills required: long tail cast on, increasing, slipped stitches, picking up stitches

Yarn:
Worsted weight, suggested: Hinterland Range
1,080 (1,200, 1,320, 1,450) [1,570, 1,730, 1,870, 2,000] yards / 990 (1,100, 1,210, 1,330) [1,440, 1,580, 1,710, 1,830] metres

Needles: 
US 5 / 3.75mm straight or circular needle (knitter’s preference for knitting flat)
US 5 / 3.75mm circular or double pointed needles (for neck ribbing)
US 6 / 4mm straight or circular needles (knitter’s preference for knitting flat)
or size needed to obtain gauge

Gauge:
Using US 6 / 4mm needles, 19 stitches and 26 rows = 4” / 10cm in stockinette stitch

Size information:
Chest circumference (finished measurements): 38 (42, 46, 50) [54, 58, 62, 66]” / 96.5 (106.5, 117, 127) [137, 147, 157.5, 167.5] cm

Intended ease: 6 – 8” / 15.25 – 20.25 cm positive ease in chest

 

***TESTS FILLED, THANK YOU!***